Scenic Variant · France → Italy → Switzerland → France

Tour du Mont Blanc
10-Day Scenic Itinerary

The most spectacular variant route — high passes, glacier views, and unforgettable alpine landscapes

10 Hiking Days
172–194 km Total Distance
9,250–11,350 m Total Elev Gain
~7 hr Avg Per Day
3 Countries
2,665 m Highest Point

Route Map

Scenic variant · click any marker for stage details

Scenic route
Traditional alt (Days 1,2,7)
Overnight stop
Key pass / highlight
Start / Finish — Les Houches
Food / cafe stop

Day-by-Day Itinerary

Click any day to expand full details · Set a start date above to see daily dates

Day0
Arrival — Les Houches or Chamonix
Pre-Trek Night 🇫🇷 France Rest · Gear check · Early dinner
▾

✈️ Getting There — Geneva → Chamonix / Les Houches

Shuttle bus from Place Dorcière, Geneva → Chamonix centre (2 hr) or Les Houches.

~$17 · Book online
~$19 · Book online
~$14.50 · Cheapest option

🏠 Base: Les Houches — walk to start arch

Gîte Michel Fagot Website → Book →
Closest gîte to TMB start arch. 34 beds in small dorms + 1 double room. Half-board, packed lunches, laundry, hot showers. The classic pre-TMB base.
RockyPop Hôtel ★★★ Website →
148 rooms, brasserie, bar, live music. Right at the Le Pont bus stop (Line 1 to Chamonix). Fun, social vibe — popular with hikers.
ibis Styles Les Houches Booking.com →
Budget option. 6-min walk to start arch. Parking with EV charging.

🚌 Base: Chamonix — bus to Les Houches on Day 1

Bus: Chamonix centre bus stop → Les Houches (Mairie stop) · Line 1 · every 30 min from ~7:00 AM · ~20 min · ~€1.50 or free with Chamonix Guest Card (ask your hotel). Mont Blanc Express train also stops directly at Les Houches. Aim to be at the start arch by 7:30 AM latest on Day 1.
Heliopic Hotel & Spa ★★★★ Website →
4-star, right in Chamonix centre. 500 m² NUXE spa, heated pool, sauna, hammam. Bib Gourmand restaurant. Best splurge option before the trek.
Auberge du Manoir ★★★ Website →
Charming 3-star chalet-style hotel in Chamonix centre. Outdoor jacuzzi, sauna, mountain views. Mid-range, excellent location near all services.
💡 Notes: Arrive early enough to sort gear and buy last supplies. Set alarm for 6 AM (Les Houches base) or 5:30 AM (Chamonix base for bus) — Day 1 is the hardest day on the route.

🍕 Dinner if in Les Houches: Pizzeria Lou Vio — beside the historic church. Savoyarde pizza with local reblochon. Perfect carb-load.

🍽 Dinner & drinks if in Chamonix:
Savoyard classics — fondue, raclette, reblochonnade. Since 1972.
Gourmet French & Savoyard in a wooden chalet. Mont Blanc terrace views.
Franco-Italian. Family recipes, lasagna, pasta. 4.8★ — named after the legendary mountaineer.
Burgers, sandwiches, crêpes. Fast, generous, casual. Open daily 11am–10pm since 1996.
Classic Chamonix crêperie. Sweet and savoury galettes.
Gelateria in Chamonix centre. Post-dinner gelato ritual.
Best coffee in Chamonix. Specialty roasts, cinnamon rolls, cakes. Tue–Sat 10am–5pm.
Artisan sourdough bakery. Country bread, focaccia, pastries. Open from 8:30am — grab breakfast before the bus.

🛒 Supplies & Gear (Chamonix)

Stock up on trail snacks, fuel, and any missing gear before the trek starts.

Le Refuge Payot (Rue Paccard)
Famous Savoyard deli on the pedestrian street. Cheese, charcuterie, local snacks, wine. Must-stop for picnic supplies.
Le Refuge Payot (Rue Vallot)
Second location opposite Super U. Same great Savoyard specialties — convenient if stopping at the supermarket too.
117 rue Joseph Vallot. Full supermarket — gels, bars, dried food, sunscreen, first aid. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 8:30am–12:30pm.
53 avenue du Mont-Blanc. Premier mountaineering store — Scarpa, Grivel, Black Diamond. Expert staff, boot fitting, equipment rental.
200 av. de l'Aiguille du Midi. 1,000 m² of alpine gear — crampons, boots, ice axes, trekking poles. Rental and retail.
19 avenue Michel Croz. Budget-friendly sports gear, trekking socks, poles, rain jackets, snacks. Mon–Sat 9:30am–7:30pm.
TypeArrival day
HikingNone
Base option ALes Houches
Base option BChamonix + bus
Bus Chamonix→start~20 min · €1.50
TMB Start Arch
Les Houches village centre
Day1
Les Houches → Refuge de la Balme
Very Hard Col de Tricot 🇫🇷 France 22–24 km · 8–9 hr
▾

Highlights

Notre-Dame de la Gorge Col de Tricot (2,120 m) Glacier views of Bionnassay Refuge Miage Panoramic Mont Blanc views Hanging glacier of Bionnassay
⚠ Notes: Most demanding day. Start early (6–7 AM). Pass Notre-Dame de la Gorge chapel near Les Contamines — a classic TMB landmark. Book refuge well in advance. Bring trekking poles.

☕ Cafes: Éric Jacquier — right next to the TMB start arch in Les Houches, grab coffee before setting off. The Glacier Restaurant in Les Contamines — good stop en route if passing through.
Distance 22–24 km
Elev Gain ↑ 1,500–1,700 m
Elev Loss ↓ 1,100–1,300 m
Hiking Time 8–9 hr
Difficulty Very Hard
Overnight
Refuge de la Balme
Website → Book →
Day2
Refuge de la Balme → Cabane du Combal
Hard Tête Sud des Fours 🇮🇹 Italy 20–22 km · 7.5–9 hr
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Highlights

Tête Sud des Fours (2,756 m) Sweeping Italian Alps views Glacier de la Lex Blanche Remote high-alpine scenery
⚠ Notes: Tête variant requires good weather. Check forecast night before. Cabane du Combal is remote — no bail-out options mid-route.
Distance20–22 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,300–1,500 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,400–1,600 m
Hiking Time7.5–9 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight
Cabane du Combal
Website / Book →
Day3
Cabane du Combal → Courmayeur
Moderate Via Mont Favre 🇮🇹 Italy 14–16 km · 5–6 hr
▾

Highlights

Lac Combal Mont Favre ridge traverse Glacier views above Val Veny Courmayeur — Italian alpine gem Restaurant meals & espresso
💡 Notes: High route via Mont Favre ridge above Val Veny before dropping into Courmayeur. Recovery/town day — arrive early, resupply food & first aid.

🍽 Lunch: Rifugio Maison Vieille (1,956 m) — right on the TMB descent at Col Chécrouit. Stone-slab cooking, hearty mountain food. Natural stop before the final drop into Courmayeur.

🍕 Dinner: Ristorante Pizzeria du Tunnel in Courmayeur.

🍦 Dessert: Gelateria Crème et Chocolat — Piazza Brocherel 2 (main square). Best gelato in Courmayeur, Mont Blanc views. Open ~8am–8pm, closed Wed.
Distance14–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 250–450 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time5–6 hr
DifficultyModerate
Overnight
Courmayeur (hotel)
Booking.com →
Day4
Courmayeur → Hotel Chalet Val Ferret
Hard Balcony Traverse via Bonatti 🇮🇹 Italy 18–20 km · 7–8 hr
▾

Highlights

Rifugio Bertone viewpoint Iconic Rifugio Bonatti Grandes Jorasses face Val Ferret meadows
⭐ Notes: One of the most scenic days. Rifugio Bonatti is a must-stop for lunch/coffee. Book Hotel Chalet Val Ferret early.
Distance18–20 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,000–1,300 m
Elev Loss↓ 700–900 m
Hiking Time7–8 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight
Hotel Chalet Val Ferret
Website →Book →
Day5
Hotel Chalet Val Ferret → La Fouly
Hard Grand Col Ferret 🇮🇹→🇨🇭 Italy · Switzerland 19–21 km · 7–8 hr
▾

Highlights

Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) Italy–Switzerland border crossing Dramatic shift to Swiss Alps Ferret Valley descent
🛂 Notes: Italy → Switzerland border. Carry passport. Currency changes to CHF. Auberge Maya-Joie has great views of Mont Dolent.
Distance19–21 km
Elev Gain↑ 900–1,100 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time7–8 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight — Option A
Gîte de la Fouly
Website → Book →
Overnight — Option B
Auberge Maya-Joie
Website → Book →
Day6
La Fouly → Champex / Relais d'Arpette
Moderate Swiss Valley Route 🇨🇭 Switzerland 20–22 km · 6–7 hr
▾

Highlights

Praz-de-Fort Champex-Lac (Swiss mountain lake) Swiss village charm Prep for Fenêtre d'Arpette
💡 Notes: Stay at Relais d'Arpette to get an early start on Day 7 Fenêtre variant. Champex has shops for resupply. Book early.

🥞 En route: La Kabana — buvette on the Saleinaz plateau in Praz-de-Fort. Crepes, local pies, open daily 9am–5pm until mid-September. Don't skip it.

🏨 Also in Champex-Lac: Hotel Alpina — good alternative if Relais d'Arpette is full.
Distance20–22 km
Elev Gain↑ 600–800 m
Elev Loss↓ 500–700 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyModerate
Overnight — Option A
Relais d'Arpette
Website → Book →
Overnight — Option B
Hotel Alpina Champex-Lac
Website →
Overnight — Option C
Chalet La Grange
Website → Book →
Overnight — Option D
Pension en Plein Air
Website → Book →
Day7
Relais d'Arpette → Refuge Le Peuty
Very Hard Fenêtre d'Arpette 🇨🇭 Switzerland 16–18 km · 8.5–10 hr
▾

Highlights

Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665 m) Highest point on standard TMB Trient Glacier Dramatic rocky terrain Unforgettable views
⚠ CRITICAL: Only attempt in stable weather — rocky, exposed descent with possible snow. Start by 7 AM. Take Bovine route if any doubt.
Distance16–18 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,300–1,500 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,500–1,700 m
Hiking Time8.5–10 hr
DifficultyVery Hard
Overnight
Refuge Le Peuty
Website →Book →
Day8
Refuge Le Peuty → Argentière
Hard Col de Balme 🇨🇭→🇫🇷 Switzerland · France 17–19 km · 6–7 hr
▾

Highlights

Col de Balme (2,204 m) Switzerland→France crossing First Chamonix Valley view Aiguilles Rouges Argentière Glacier
🛂 Notes: Back to EUR. Argentière has restaurants and shops — gear check before final push.

🥐 Bakery: l'Al'pain in Argentière — hit this in the morning before Day 9 departure.
Distance17–19 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,100–1,300 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight
Argentière (hotel/gîte)
Booking.com →
Day9
Argentière → Refuge de la Flégère
Hard Grand Balcon Sud / Tête aux Vents 🇫🇷 France 13–16 km · 6–7 hr
▾

Highlights

Grand Balcon Sud traverse Iron ladder section Lac Blanc Aiguille Verte views Grandes Jorasses views Mer de Glace glacier Flégère sunset over Mont Blanc
⭐ Notes: Shorter day — save energy for Day 10. Route includes an iron ladder section (fixed rungs, exposed — take care with pack). Detour to Lac Blanc for the iconic Mont Blanc reflection; add ~1 hr. Refuge de la Flégère has one of the best Mont Blanc panoramas on the entire route.
Distance13–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 900–1,100 m
Elev Loss↓ 400–700 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight
Refuge de la Flégère
Website / Book →
Day10
Refuge de la Flégère → Les Houches 🎉
Hard Brévent Finish 🇫🇷 France 13–16 km · 5–6 hr
▾

Highlights

Brévent summit (2,525 m) Full Mont Blanc massif panorama Triumphant descent to Les Houches TMB completion!
🎉 Notes: Final day — Brévent can be windy/exposed. Take cable car down if legs are done. Celebrate in Les Houches or Chamonix!
Distance13–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 400–600 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,300–1,600 m
Hiking Time5–6 hr
DifficultyHard
Overnight
Les Houches (celebration dinner!)
Booking.com →

Route Highlights

The unmissable moments of the 10-day scenic variant

Day 1 · Les Houches
Éric Jacquier
The send-off coffee. Café right next to the TMB start arch — a ritual before the first step on the trail.
Day 1
Col de Tricot (2,120 m)
Glacial views of the Bionnassay glacier and the full Mont Blanc massif — a dramatic opening statement on the hardest day.
Day 1 · Les Contamines
Notre-Dame de la Gorge
17th-century Baroque chapel tucked in a gorge — a classic TMB landmark and the gateway to the high alpine terrain ahead.
Day 2
Tête Sud des Fours (2,756 m)
Remote high-alpine crossing above the Italian valley. Sweeping views over the Glacier de la Lex Blanche — no bailout once you're up.
Day 3
Mont Favre Ridge
High traverse above Val Veny with glacier views back toward Mont Blanc before the descent into Courmayeur.
Day 3 · Courmayeur
Ristorante Pizzeria du Tunnel
The best meal of the trip. Courmayeur's Italian alpine gem — earn it after two of the hardest days on the route.
Day 4
Rifugio Bonatti
Iconic mountaineering hut beneath the Grandes Jorasses face. Best lunch stop on the entire trail — named after the great Walter Bonatti.
Day 5
Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m)
Italy–Switzerland border crossing. The landscape character shifts completely as you descend into the Swiss Ferret Valley.
Day 6 · Praz-de-Fort
La Kabana
Beloved buvette on the Saleinaz plateau. Crepes, local pies, warm welcome. Open daily until mid-September — don't skip it.
Day 6
Champex-Lac
Jewel-like Swiss mountain lake ringed by forest and chalets. The calm before the storm of Day 7's Fenêtre d'Arpette.
Day 7
Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665 m)
Highest point on the scenic TMB. Rocky, wild, unforgettable. The Trient Glacier descent is like another planet.
Day 8
Col de Balme (2,204 m)
Switzerland back into France. First full view of the Chamonix Valley — the finish line comes into sight for the first time.
Day 8 · Argentière
l'Al'pain Bakery
Best bakery on the route. Stock up the night before or grab breakfast before the penultimate push toward Flégère.
Day 9
Iron Ladder Section
Fixed iron rungs on an exposed section of the Grand Balcon Sud. Takes care with a loaded pack — thrilling moment on the route.
Day 9
Lac Blanc
The iconic Mont Blanc reflection shot. Add ~1 hr for the detour — worth every step. One of the most photographed spots in the Alps.
Day 9 night
Refuge de la Flégère
Best Mont Blanc sunset view on the entire route. Watch the massif glow golden as you rest before the final day.
Day 10
Brévent Summit (2,525 m)
Final panorama — the full Mont Blanc massif face-to-face at the finish line. A triumphant end to the circuit.

Planning & Reference

Trip statistics, route variants, weather contingencies, and booking checklist

Total Distance

172–194 km
107.5–120.5 mi · Scenic variant

Total Elevation Gain

9,250–11,350 m
30,500–37,300 ft cumulative

Total Elevation Loss

10,500–12,700 m
34,300–41,700 ft cumulative

Daily Average

~18 km / day
~7 hr hiking per day

Countries Crossed

3 Countries
🇫🇷 France → 🇮🇹 Italy → 🇨🇭 Switzerland → 🇫🇷 France

Highest Point

2,665 m
Fenêtre d'Arpette — Day 7

Hardest Days

Very Hard
Day 1 — Les Houches → Refuge de la Balme
Col de Tricot: 1,500–1,700 m gain, 8–9 hr, exposed ridge
Very Hard
Day 7 — Relais d'Arpette → Refuge Le Peuty
Fenêtre d'Arpette: 1,300–1,500 m gain, rocky descent, 8.5–10 hr
Hard
Day 2 — Refuge de la Balme → Cabane du Combal
Tête Sud des Fours: remote, high-alpine, no bailout
Hard
Day 4 — Courmayeur → Hotel Chalet Val Ferret
Balcony traverse: sustained climb, 7–8 hr
Hard
Day 5 — Val Ferret → La Fouly
Grand Col Ferret: border crossing, 7–8 hr

Key Weather Decision Points

Night before Day 1
Check Col de Tricot forecast
Use Bellevue/valley route if thunderstorms forecast after noon
Night before Day 2
Check Tête Sud des Fours forecast
Take Mottets valley route if visibility <2,500 m or snow on col
Night before Day 7 ⚠
Check Fenêtre d'Arpette forecast
CRITICAL: Take Bovine route if any snow or rain. No exceptions.
Night before Days 9–10
Check Brévent/Flégère ridge forecast
Use cable car if lightning risk. Route still complete.

✈️ Getting There — Geneva → Chamonix / Les Houches

Shuttle bus from Place Dorcière, Geneva → Chamonix centre (2 hr) or Les Houches.

~$17 · Book online
~$19 · Book online
~$14.50 · Cheapest option

Pre-Trip Checklist

Days 1, 2, and 7 have significant traditional alternatives. All other days share the same route.

Day Scenic Route Traditional Route Scenic km Trad km Time Difficulty When to Choose Traditional
Day 1 Les Houches → Col de Tricot → Refuge de la Balme
Scenic		 Les Houches → Bellachat → Les Contamines → Refuge de la Balme
Traditional		 22–24 24–26 Similar total; Tricot harder Very Hard vs Hard High winds / thunderstorm on Tricot; first day nerves; heavy pack; mixed fitness group
Day 2 Refuge de la Balme → Tête Sud des Fours → Cabane du Combal
Scenic		 Refuge de la Balme → Refuge des Mottets → Cabane du Combal
Traditional		 20–22 17–19 Traditional ~1–2 hr shorter Hard vs Moderate Poor visibility or snow; fatigue after Day 1; late season; want Mottets lunch stop
Days 3–6 Shared route — routes identical
Day 7 Relais d'Arpette → Fenêtre d'Arpette → Le Peuty
Scenic		 Champex → Col de la Forclaz (Bovine) → Le Peuty
Traditional		 16–18 18–21 Fenêtre ~1–2 hr longer Very Hard vs Moderate Snow / rain / cloud below 2,500 m; fatigue; early/late season; mixed experience — Bovine is beautiful
Days 8–10 Shared route — routes identical

Check MeteoBlue or MeteoFrance every evening before. Decision table for route changes based on conditions.

Day 1
Thunderstorm / high winds above 2,000 m

Route to Avoid

Col de Tricot (2,120 m) — exposed ridge, cable route on descent

Safer Alternative

Bellevue cable car → Les Contamines valley route → Refuge de la Balme (~24–26 km, Hard not Very Hard)

Check MeteoBlue at 6 AM. If thunderstorms forecast above 1,800 m after noon → take traditional route. No shame — Day 1 fitness is precious.
Day 2
Poor visibility / snow / ice on high passes

Route to Avoid

Tête Sud des Fours (2,756 m) — highest crossing, no bailout mid-route

Safer Alternative

Standard valley route: Refuge de la Balme → Refuge des Mottets → Cabane du Combal (~17–19 km, Moderate)

Tête Sud des Fours has snow patches until July. If cloud base below 2,500 m = skip. Refuge des Mottets is a great lunch stop on easier route.
Day 7 — CRITICAL DECISION
Snow / rain / cloud below 2,500 m

Route to Avoid

Fenêtre d'Arpette (2,665 m) — rocky, exposed, no path in snow, dangerous descent

Safer Alternative

BOVINE ROUTE: Champex → Bovine alp → Col de la Forclaz → Le Peuty (~18–21 km, Moderate). Excellent alternative with great views.

RULE: if any snow visible on Fenêtre d'Arpette OR rain forecast above 2,000 m → take Bovine. No exceptions. Bovine is a beautiful route.
Day 4
High winds on Bertone balcony / afternoon storms

Risk Area

Exposed balcony sections above Courmayeur. Afternoon convective storms common in July–Aug.

Mitigation

Leave early (7 AM). Rifugio Bonatti is the key decision point (~5 hr in). If storm approaching: descend to valley, bus to Hotel Chalet Val Ferret.

Bus: Courmayeur → La Palud → Ferret valley if fully aborting.
Day 8
High winds / poor visibility near Col de Balme

Risk Area

Exposed ridge sections approaching Col de Balme. Lightning on ridge.

Shelter Option

Col de Balme has a manned hut (Refuge du Col de Balme). Gondola: Le Tour → Chamonix valley. Bus: Chamonix → Argentière.

Col de Balme is generally accessible in bad weather — it's a wide col with a hut. Main risk is lightning on ridge.
Days 9–10
High winds / lightning on Brévent ridge

Route to Avoid

Exposed Brévent ridge traverse and summit (2,525 m) — dangerous in lightning

Cable Car Options

Day 9: Flégère cable car ↔ Chamonix valley. Day 10: Skip Brévent summit, descend Flégère cable car. TMB still complete.

Brévent can be genuinely dangerous in electrical storms. No hero finish if lightning present — cable car down is the right call.
📅 Booking Timeline
Most refuges open bookings in November for the following summer. For a July–August trip, book February–March at the latest — popular stages fill within days of opening.

Book these first (fill fastest):
  1. Day 1 · Refuge de la Balme — first night, everyone arrives same day
  2. Day 6 · Relais d'Arpette — essential for early Fenêtre d'Arpette start on Day 7
  3. Day 4 · Hotel Chalet Val Ferret — only option in the valley, books out fast
  4. Day 9 · Refuge de la Flégère — popular final refuge, limited beds
  5. Day 2 · Cabane du Combal — remote, small capacity
Day0
Pre-Trek Night — Les Houches or Chamonix
Les Houches / Chamonix, France 🇫🇷
Gîte Fagot → RockyPop → Heliopic →
See Day 0 card for all options Book with rest of trip
Day1
Refuge de la Balme
Les Contamines area, France 🇫🇷
Website → Book →
Essential Demi-pension Cash preferred Cold shower
Day2
Cabane du Combal
Val Veny, Italy 🇮🇹
Website / Book →
Very remote Demi-pension Cash only (EUR)
Day3
Hotel / B&B Courmayeur
Courmayeur, Italy 🇮🇹
Booking.com →
Town fills fast Restaurant town Card accepted Hot shower
Day4
Hotel Chalet Val Ferret
Val Ferret, Italy 🇮🇹
Website → Book →
Book early Dinner option Cash + card
Day5
Gîte de la Fouly or Auberge Maya-Joie
La Fouly, Switzerland 🇨🇭
Gîte Website → Gîte Book →
Maya-Joie Website → Maya-Joie Book →
CHF; card at hotel Breakfast included Mont Dolent views
Day6
Champex-Lac — 4 options
Champex-Lac, Switzerland 🇨🇭
Arpette Website → Arpette Book →
Alpina Website →
La Grange Website → La Grange Book →
Plein Air Website → Plein Air Book →
Book early for Day 7 Demi-pension CHF; card OK Hot shower
Day7
Refuge Le Peuty
Le Peuty / Trient, Switzerland 🇨🇭
Website → Book →
Demi-pension Cash preferred (CHF) Cold shower
Day8
Hotel / Gîte Argentière
Argentière, France 🇫🇷
Booking.com →
EUR; card accepted Restaurant village Private or shared
Day9
Refuge de la Flégère
Flégère, above Chamonix, France 🇫🇷
Website / Book →
Fills very fast Demi-pension Cash preferred (EUR)
Day10
Les Houches / Chamonix Hotel
Les Houches or Chamonix, France 🇫🇷
Booking.com →
Celebrate! EUR; card accepted Hot shower Laundry
10-day TMB with refuges — demi-pension most nights. Target pack weight: 8–10 kg including water.
👟 Footwear
🧥 Clothing
🛏 Sleep & Hut
🗺 Navigation
🩹 Health & Safety
📄 Documents & Money
🍫 Food & Snacks
🎒 Pack & Misc