Day-by-Day Itinerary
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Day0
Arrival — Les Houches or Chamonix
✈️ Getting There — Geneva → Chamonix / Les Houches
Shuttle bus from Place Dorcière, Geneva → Chamonix centre (2 hr) or Les Houches.
🏠 Base: Les Houches — walk to start arch
Closest gîte to TMB start arch. 34 beds in small dorms + 1 double room. Half-board, packed lunches, laundry, hot showers. The classic pre-TMB base.
RockyPop Hôtel ★★★
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148 rooms, brasserie, bar, live music. Right at the Le Pont bus stop (Line 1 to Chamonix). Fun, social vibe — popular with hikers.
ibis Styles Les Houches
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Budget option. 6-min walk to start arch. Parking with EV charging.
🚌 Base: Chamonix — bus to Les Houches on Day 1
Bus: Chamonix centre bus stop → Les Houches (Mairie stop) · Line 1 · every 30 min from ~7:00 AM · ~20 min · ~€1.50 or free with Chamonix Guest Card (ask your hotel). Mont Blanc Express train also stops directly at Les Houches. Aim to be at the start arch by 7:30 AM latest on Day 1.
Heliopic Hotel & Spa ★★★★
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4-star, right in Chamonix centre. 500 m² NUXE spa, heated pool, sauna, hammam. Bib Gourmand restaurant. Best splurge option before the trek.
Auberge du Manoir ★★★
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Charming 3-star chalet-style hotel in Chamonix centre. Outdoor jacuzzi, sauna, mountain views. Mid-range, excellent location near all services.
💡 Notes: Arrive early enough to sort gear and buy last supplies. Set alarm for 6 AM (Les Houches base) or 5:30 AM (Chamonix base for bus) — Day 2 is the hardest day on the route, so pace yourself on Day 1.
🍕 Dinner if in Les Houches: Pizzeria Lou Vio — beside the historic church. Savoyarde pizza with local reblochon. Perfect carb-load.
🍽 Dinner & drinks if in Chamonix:
🍕 Dinner if in Les Houches: Pizzeria Lou Vio — beside the historic church. Savoyarde pizza with local reblochon. Perfect carb-load.
🍽 Dinner & drinks if in Chamonix:
Savoyard classics — fondue, raclette, reblochonnade. Since 1972.
Gourmet French & Savoyard in a wooden chalet. Mont Blanc terrace views.
Franco-Italian. Family recipes, lasagna, pasta. 4.8★ — named after the legendary mountaineer.
Burgers, sandwiches, crêpes. Fast, generous, casual. Open daily 11am–10pm since 1996.
Classic Chamonix crêperie. Sweet and savoury galettes.
Gelateria in Chamonix centre. Post-dinner gelato ritual.
Best coffee in Chamonix. Specialty roasts, cinnamon rolls, cakes. Tue–Sat 10am–5pm.
Artisan sourdough bakery. Country bread, focaccia, pastries. Open from 8:30am — grab breakfast before the bus.
🛒 Supplies & Gear (Chamonix)
Stock up on trail snacks, fuel, and any missing gear before the trek starts.
Le Refuge Payot (Rue Paccard)
Famous Savoyard deli on the pedestrian street. Cheese, charcuterie, local snacks, wine. Must-stop for picnic supplies.
Le Refuge Payot (Rue Vallot)
Second location opposite Super U. Same great Savoyard specialties — convenient if stopping at the supermarket too.
117 rue Joseph Vallot. Full supermarket — gels, bars, dried food, sunscreen, first aid. Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 8:30am–12:30pm.
53 avenue du Mont-Blanc. Premier mountaineering store — Scarpa, Grivel, Black Diamond. Expert staff, boot fitting, equipment rental.
200 av. de l'Aiguille du Midi. 1,000 m² of alpine gear — crampons, boots, ice axes, trekking poles. Rental and retail.
19 avenue Michel Croz. Budget-friendly sports gear, trekking socks, poles, rain jackets, snacks. Mon–Sat 9:30am–7:30pm.
TypeArrival day
HikingNone
Base option ALes Houches
Base option BChamonix + bus
Bus Chamonix→start~20 min · €1.50
TMB Start Arch
Les Houches village centre
Day1
Les Houches → Refuge de Nant Borrant
Highlights
⚠ Notes: Start early (6–7 AM). Cross the suspension bridge below the Bionnassay glacier snout, then climb to Col de Tricot (2,120 m) — head-on glacier views of the Bionnassay and the Mont Blanc massif. Later, pass Notre-Dame de la Gorge chapel near Les Contamines — a classic TMB landmark. Day ends a stage short of Refuge de la Balme, leaving that climb for the start of Day 2. Book refuge well in advance. Bring trekking poles.
☕ Cafes: Éric Jacquier — right next to the TMB start arch in Les Houches, grab coffee before setting off. The Glacier Restaurant in Les Contamines — good stop en route if passing through.
☕ Cafes: Éric Jacquier — right next to the TMB start arch in Les Houches, grab coffee before setting off. The Glacier Restaurant in Les Contamines — good stop en route if passing through.
Distance
20–22 km
Elev Gain
↑ 1,200–1,400 m
Elev Loss
↓ 1,100–1,300 m
Hiking Time
7–8 hr
Difficulty
Hard
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Day2
Refuge de Nant Borrant → Cabane du Combal
Highlights
⚠ Notes: Longest day on the route. Climbs past Refuge de la Balme and over Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Croix du Bonhomme before the Tête variant — no flat warm-up. Tête variant requires good weather. Check forecast night before. Cabane du Combal is remote — no bail-out options mid-route.
🍽 Lunch option: Rifugio Elisabetta (2,195 m) — perched under the Lex Blanche glacier near the end of the day, ~40 min before Combal. Late lunch or coffee with the icefall.
🍽 Lunch option: Rifugio Elisabetta (2,195 m) — perched under the Lex Blanche glacier near the end of the day, ~40 min before Combal. Late lunch or coffee with the icefall.
Distance22–24 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,600–1,800 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,400–1,600 m
Hiking Time8.5–10 hr
DifficultyVery Hard
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Day3
Cabane du Combal → Courmayeur
Highlights
💡 Notes: High route via Mont Favre ridge above Val Veny before dropping into Courmayeur. Recovery/town day — arrive early, resupply food & first aid.
🍽 Lunch: Rifugio Maison Vieille (1,956 m) — right on the TMB descent at Col Chécrouit. Stone-slab cooking, hearty mountain food. Natural stop before the final drop into Courmayeur.
🍕 Dinner: Ristorante Pizzeria du Tunnel in Courmayeur.
🍦 Dessert: Gelateria Crème et Chocolat — Piazza Brocherel 2 (main square). Best gelato in Courmayeur, Mont Blanc views. Open ~8am–8pm, closed Wed.
🍽 Lunch: Rifugio Maison Vieille (1,956 m) — right on the TMB descent at Col Chécrouit. Stone-slab cooking, hearty mountain food. Natural stop before the final drop into Courmayeur.
🍕 Dinner: Ristorante Pizzeria du Tunnel in Courmayeur.
🍦 Dessert: Gelateria Crème et Chocolat — Piazza Brocherel 2 (main square). Best gelato in Courmayeur, Mont Blanc views. Open ~8am–8pm, closed Wed.
Distance14–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 250–450 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time5–6 hr
DifficultyModerate
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Day4
Courmayeur → Hotel Chalet Val Ferret
Highlights
⭐ Notes: One of the most scenic days. Rifugio Bonatti is a must-stop for lunch/coffee. Book Hotel Chalet Val Ferret early.
Distance18–20 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,000–1,300 m
Elev Loss↓ 700–900 m
Hiking Time7–8 hr
DifficultyHard
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Day5
Hotel Chalet Val Ferret → La Fouly
Highlights
🛂 Notes: Italy → Switzerland border. Carry passport. Currency changes to CHF. Auberge Maya-Joie has great views of Mont Dolent.
🧀 Lunch: Gîte Alpage de La Peule (2,100 m) — working alpage ~1 hr below Grand Col Ferret on the Swiss side, 65 dairy cows and house-made cheese. Order the croûte au fromage — bread, their own raclette cheese, ham, and egg. The lunch of the trip.
🧀 Lunch: Gîte Alpage de La Peule (2,100 m) — working alpage ~1 hr below Grand Col Ferret on the Swiss side, 65 dairy cows and house-made cheese. Order the croûte au fromage — bread, their own raclette cheese, ham, and egg. The lunch of the trip.
Distance19–21 km
Elev Gain↑ 900–1,100 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time7–8 hr
DifficultyHard
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Day6
La Fouly → Champex / Relais d'Arpette
Highlights
💡 Notes: Stay at Relais d'Arpette to get an early start on Day 7 Fenêtre variant. Champex has shops for resupply. Book early.
🥞 En route: La Kabana — buvette on the Saleinaz plateau in Praz-de-Fort. Crepes, local pies, open daily 9am–5pm until mid-September. Don't skip it.
🏨 Also in Champex-Lac: Hotel Alpina — the food is the reason to stay: Michelin-guide-recommended kitchen, chef-owner cooks everything himself, and multiple TMB hikers call it the best dinner on the entire loop. Book dinner even if sleeping at Arpette.
🥞 En route: La Kabana — buvette on the Saleinaz plateau in Praz-de-Fort. Crepes, local pies, open daily 9am–5pm until mid-September. Don't skip it.
🏨 Also in Champex-Lac: Hotel Alpina — the food is the reason to stay: Michelin-guide-recommended kitchen, chef-owner cooks everything himself, and multiple TMB hikers call it the best dinner on the entire loop. Book dinner even if sleeping at Arpette.
Distance20–22 km
Elev Gain↑ 600–800 m
Elev Loss↓ 500–700 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyModerate
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Day7
Champex / Relais d'Arpette → Refuge Le Peuty
Highlights
⚠ CRITICAL: Only attempt in stable weather — rocky, exposed descent with possible snow. Start by 7 AM. Take Bovine route if any doubt.
🥧 If taking the Bovine route: the consolation prize is Alpage de Bovine — a working farm buvette on a grassy shelf above the Rhône valley, cows at the fence and clouds below. Everything homemade: berry and apricot pies, apple-cream tart, rösti with alp cheese — many TMB hikers rate the pie the best food moment of the loop. Cash only, busiest at midday.
🥧 If taking the Bovine route: the consolation prize is Alpage de Bovine — a working farm buvette on a grassy shelf above the Rhône valley, cows at the fence and clouds below. Everything homemade: berry and apricot pies, apple-cream tart, rösti with alp cheese — many TMB hikers rate the pie the best food moment of the loop. Cash only, busiest at midday.
Distance16–18 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,300–1,500 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,500–1,700 m
Hiking Time8.5–10 hr
DifficultyVery Hard
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Day8
Refuge Le Peuty → Argentière
Highlights
🛂 Notes: Back to EUR. Argentière has restaurants and shops — gear check before final push.
🥐 Bakery: l'Al'pain in Argentière — hit this in the morning before Day 9 departure.
🥐 Bakery: l'Al'pain in Argentière — hit this in the morning before Day 9 departure.
Distance17–19 km
Elev Gain↑ 1,100–1,300 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,200–1,400 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyHard
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Day9
Argentière → Refuge de la Flégère
Highlights
⭐ Notes: Shorter day — save energy for Day 10. Route includes an iron ladder section (fixed rungs, exposed — take care with pack). Detour to Lac Blanc for the iconic Mont Blanc reflection; add ~1 hr. Refuge de la Flégère has one of the best Mont Blanc panoramas on the entire route.
Distance13–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 900–1,100 m
Elev Loss↓ 400–700 m
Hiking Time6–7 hr
DifficultyHard
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Day10
Refuge de la Flégère → Les Houches 🎉
Highlights
🎉 Notes: Final day — Brévent can be windy/exposed. Take cable car down if legs are done. Celebrate in Les Houches or Chamonix!
Distance13–16 km
Elev Gain↑ 400–600 m
Elev Loss↓ 1,300–1,600 m
Hiking Time5–6 hr
DifficultyHard
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